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The Little Owl

Dinner at The Little Owl tonight.

Chef Joey Campanaro, formerly of The Harrison and Pace Restaurant, recently opened an extremely small restaurant on the fringes of the West Village along with his partner, Gabriel Stulman. The restaurant has already been reviewed by Frank Bruni, the main restaurant critic for the New York Times and also by Andrea Strong.

Shots of the menu:

Grilled scallops, asparagus, grapefruit, heirloom tomatoes, cracked olives
2005 Anjou, Chateau Soucherie

Crispy chicken, asparagus home fries, shiitake mushrooms, lemon mustard sauce

Mascarpone gelato
2005 Biancospino Moscato d’Asti

Out of 10? A moderate 6 to moderate-high 6.

The rating would have been slightly higher if not for the following flaws: a) my waitress poured wine without pouring a taste — which is par for the course at any other restaurant; b) in a restaurant of less than 9 tables (not counting the bar), its not exactly comfortable to sit someone in a corner next to a floor to ceiling wall of glass windows while the sun is beating down on his back; c) someone in the kitchen needs to cut down on the salt — the chicken was quite good (and in point of fact, would have been better if it wasn’t a bit overseasoned); d) paying attention to detail is of paramount importance, such as not pouring water into a wine goblet that had a few sips left. Small errors to be sure, not the end of the world but taken together, it didn’t leave me with a good first impression.

The restaurant is fine for what it is, but I won’t be back.

6 replies »

  1. heh. not surprised then.

    this is NYC where everything is more expensive…even the weather (because of air conditioning and heat in summer and winter respectively).


  2. The only thing I really enjoyed at Little Owl were their famed meatball sliders. I agree that everything has too much salt. I figured it was just an off day, but it seems you had that issue too.

    I actually got the same corner seat you did (I know exactly what you’re talking about), but luckily it was a chilly Spring day, so the beating sunshine ended up working out great for me.


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