Gramercy Tavern

Dinner tonight at Gramercy Tavern.

I had the autumn tasting menu.

Torchon of foie gras, huckleberries, arugula, milk crema, balsamic vinegar, brioche toast points.

2004 Spreitzer Oestricher Lenchen Riesling, Kabinett, Germany

Sea urchin ragout, with Maine lobster, crabmeat and potato purée.

I substituted this for the langostino. By the way, the waitstaff are extremely accomodating. GT is known for its depth of service.  Except for one minor blip (see below), tonight was no exception.

Black bass, with lambs quarter, sugar snap peas, fingerling potatoes and sauce bearnaise.

Another shot of the bass.

Fresh bacon, honey glazed turnips, mustard greens and mostarda.

2002 Quinta Do Crasto, Douro, Portugal

Another shot of the bacon.

Rack of lamb, tomato tart, wax beans, lamb jus.

1999 Ribera del Duero, Val Sotillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain

Passionfruit sorbet, coconut tapioca, cilantro syrup, meringue wafer

Chocolate tasting: bittersweet chocolate ganache tart, chocolate ice cream, double chocolate mousse cake, caramel syrup

Mignardises

Out of 10? An upper-range 7 to low-moderate 8 based on the food alone. If I had a criticism, I would say that the house needs to mention to one or two waitstaff to please refrain from taking plates away too quickly. No sooner had I put my fork down on finishing my foie did someone jump at the chance to clear the table. I’d like to linger and savor, not be rushed through dinner.

Some people think that Gramercy Tavern has jumped the shark. That might be the case if one judges restaurants by the ratio of cutting edge, avant-garde cuisine to hospitality, comfort and care. Given the choice between “edgy” and “elegance”, I’d choose the latter every time.

Gramercy Tavern is located at 42 East 20th Street (Park Avenue South), in the Flatiron district of Manhattan.

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