The ceiling is decorated with thousands of bamboo sticks arranged in an undulating pattern that reminds you vaguely of the ocean.

Interior shot.

Fried clam bellies and oysters, tartar sauce.

2005 Pascal Jolivet Sauvignon Blanc, Loire Valley, France

Lobster roll, yuca chips.

Close-up of the lobster roll.

Banana pudding with vanilla wafers.

Chef Judy Seto, formerly of Mary’s Fish Camp, presents a cozy hideaway that offers a tantalizing array of choices for the seafood lover in all of us. The lobster roll is worth the trek. Imagine a buttery brioche roll overflowing with chunks of sweet, tender lobster tossed in an herbaceous aioli and paired alongside a mound of yuca chips. Fried clam bellies and oysters were perfectly greaseless, slightly spicy and addictive. Their corn pudding is legendary.

I haven’t had clam bellies in years. Reminds me of trips to Cape Cod with my mother and stepdad when I was a teenager. After the first bite, it seemed as if I had stepped back in time, to Hyannisport, 1986.

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Tides is located at 102 Norfolk Street (Delancey Street) in the Lower East Side.