“Smoky” kir royale
Lobster fritters, saffron, tarragon, sherry vinegar dip
Fennel amuse, herb butter, fleur de sel
Wild mushroom pizza, red onion, basil
Leffe Blonde Ale from Belgium
Roasted oysters, shallot mignonette, herbs
Seared scallop, butter-braised cabbage, Granny Smith apple, jalapeno
2005 Don David Sauvignon Blanc, Argentina
Hot smoked wild bass, fennel, lemon butter sauce, served in corn husks
Kabocha stuffed ravioli, capers, sage butter sauce, garlic
Roast squab, huckleberry conserve, salsify, brussels sprouts
2003 Domaine Sylvain Pataille, Marsannay
Roast marrow bone, garlic, fresh horseradish, toast points
Braised short ribs, foie gras, acorn squash puree, grits
Petit Verdot, Napa, California
Kobe beef, pickled chantrelle mushrooms
French fries with mustard sauce
Quince sorbet, verjus, grapefruit, butter cookies
2006 Gatti Piero, Brachetto, Italy
Chocolate souffle, smoked vanilla ice cream
For detailed critiques of each dish, click on my Flickr account on the sidebar at the right hand side of your screen.
Chef Waldy Malouf, formerly of The Four Seasons and The Rainbow Room is the executive chef and co-owner of Beacon. The gimmick here is cooking everything over an open fire: wood-roasted trout, spit-roasted duck with grilled scallions, roast suckling pig with grilled apples and bitter chocolate rub, even oysters. The house-baked breads are outstanding. Although Beacon is primarily a restaurant, it also has a full-service bar that features an exciting and adventurous cocktail list for the mixologists among us.
Chef Malouf’s newest venture is “Beacon Kitchen Counter”. Six seatings once a week in full view of the open kitchen. Guests are able to dine from a twelve-course tasting menu for the low price of $85 per person, not including tax and tip. Reservations are hard to come by as the restaurant is booked solid for the next few months. (I reserved for tonight’s dinner back in early November.)
Out of 10? Difficult to say based on one visit. Perhaps a moderate to high range 6. There were several items that I felt were not as original as other dishes I’ve had elsewhere, or needed work in terms of execution. Also, twelve courses spaced out over two to two and a half hours (including wine) is A LOT of food to take in one sitting. Most of it is quite rich, and were I not possessed of good genes, I could easily qualify for a coronary. This is not meant to dissuade you from going if you like to eat, as I do. It’s just meant to give you an honest idea of what to expect. Go for the experience, if not for the “wow” factor.
Beacon is located at 25 West 56th Street (5th Avenue) in midtown Manhattan.
Discussion on eGullet can be viewed here.