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Squash 1

Pumpkins (and by extension, winter squash) are one of the most under-utilized vegetables available. Normally thought of as an ingredient in pumpkin pie, they have a mild sweetness that’s accentuated in savory preparations such as crepes and gratinées.

Provençal pumpkin gratinée

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This gratin is adapted from Richard Olney‘s Simple French Food, a mainstay in my cookbook collection. As recipes go, it’s fairly straightforward.

3 medium delicata squash*, peeled and cut into chunks
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped coarsely
Handful of parsley, chopped finely
Pinch of salt
Freshly milled black pepper
2 tablespoons flour
Extra-virgin olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 325 F.
2. Place squash in a large bowl. Add garlic, parsley, salt and pepper. Toss to coat.
3. Sprinkle flour over squash mixture. Toss briefly until the squash is lightly coated, letting the excess fall to the bottom of the bowl.
4. Spoon squash into an earthenware or Pyrex baking dish. Generously drizzle extra-virgin olive oil.
5. Bake for one hour to 90 minutes or until the squash has crisped and become golden brown.
6. Remove baking dish from the oven and serve at once.

*Substitute pumpkin, acorn squash or Hubbard squash if unavailable.

An extended version of this post appeared in Queer New York.

2 replies »

  1. I continue to have a hard time with sweet, or slightly sweet, vegetables and have rarely found a good squash recipe. I will however try this once I return, especially if I find myself visiting NYC in the early spring.


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