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Of Squid and Ramps

The beauty in this dish is its simplicity.

Ramps luxuriate in an olive oil bath with garlic, bay leaves and lemon peel. Sliced squid is added towards the end, briefly poached, and served with the ramps and a little poaching liquid. A Grüner Veltliner or a riesling would go well with this dish which is perfect for a lunch or a light dinner.

Olive oil poached squid, with braised ramps

Recipe after the jump…

1 cup olive oil
1 pound ramps (approximately 3 bunches), cleaned
1/2 lb. squid, cleaned, trimmed and sliced into 1” pieces
2 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1 bay leaf
lemon zest, chopped
juice of one lemon
chopped parsley
kosher salt, to taste
freshly milled black pepper, to taste

Gently warm olive oil in a large, shallow pot over low heat. Add garlic, bay leaf and lemon zest. Simmer five minutes until fragrant.

Ensure that the ramps have been blotted dry to remove any excess moisture before adding them to the pot. Add ramps, tossing with the olive oil mixture. Add a pinch of salt, if desired. Cook, stirring frequently, until ramps have wilted, about 2 to 3 minutes.

When ramps have all wilted, reduce heat to low, check seasoning, then stir and cover the pot. Cook until ramps are meltingly tender (their texture should be similar to softened butter), stirring frequently to prevent burning, approx. 5-8 minutes.

Add squid a couple of minutes before the end. Cook, moving the squid in the oil so that it cooks evenly, until it turns opaque and the tentacles turn lavender, about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes.

Check seasoning once again. Stir in a little lemon juice if desired, and scatter some chopped parsley. To plate, spoon squid and ramps into a shallow soup bowl, along with a little poaching liquid. Serve with some bread to sop up the sauce.

Time: 15 minutes, not including prep.

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This recipe appears in Queer New York.

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