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A hobbit’s favorite subject (besides eating).


Big Eye tuna, honshimejji mushrooms, capers, vitello tonnato sauce Seared scallop, hen of the woods mushrooms, parsnip puree, caviar viniagrette Sweetbreads, pickled cauliflower, shallot marmalade Lamb pappardelle, tomato concasse, picholine […]

World Tong

Spent this morning having dim sum in Brooklyn… Steamed rice with Chinese sausage and gingko nuts Top: stewed tripe with turnip in curry sauce; bottom: tripe with vinegar, jalapeno pepper […]

The Modern at MoMA

Arctic char tartare, trout caviar, watercress 2006 Paul Blanck Riesling Classique, Alsace, France Parsnip and sunchoke puree, diver scallops, black truffles, chives Slow-poached egg in a mason jar, Maine lobster, […]

New York City Dining — 2007

This list was hard to think about, much less rank. That being said, I tried my damndest even though for some people, my palate is somewhat pedestrian. 😉 Cod, watermelon […]

Musical Fruit

Stewed cellini beans Rancho Gordo cellini beans onion, diced celery, diced carrot, peeled and diced bacon bacon drippings water Make a basic mirepoix: 1 part celery, 1 part carrot to […]

Weekend Vista

Yes, I know, it’s Thursday morning as I’m posting this. A selection of cheeses and condiments, bread and wine at Otto.  Not shown, though I’m sure he wouldn’t have minded:   […]

Beacon Kitchen Counter

“Smoky” kir royale Lobster fritters, saffron, tarragon, sherry vinegar dip Fennel amuse, herb butter, fleur de sel Wild mushroom pizza, red onion, basil Leffe Blonde Ale from Belgium Roasted oysters, […]

Simple Elegance

In classical Italian cuisine, osso buco (literally, “hole bone”) is a dish that hails from the city of Milan in northern Italy. It is traditionally made with veal shanks and […]

Catch of the Day

Ciuppin hails from the Liguria region of Italy, along the northwest coast. You might recognize it’s more famous American derivation, cioppino. Ciuppin is typically served with a piece of grilled […]


I made a batch of sugo di pomodoro tonight which will feature in a couple of dinners this week. There were a couple of ladlefuls left at the bottom of […]

Market Day

Clockwise from top left: delicata squash, een choy, pork shanks from Flying Pigs Farm, baby Russian Banana potatoes, parsnips, salted butter from Ronnybrook Farm and whole milk fresh ricotta. It […]

Humble Origins

There are many variations of pasta puttanesca. The name puttanesca is derived from the Italian puttane or “whore”. According to one story, the name purportedly comes from the fact that […]

Winter’s Bounty

Roasted fingerling potatoes, radishes, baby turnips, carrots and shallots. Served with a tarragon viniagrette [extra-virgin olive oil, chopped fresh thyme, salt, pepper, tarragon Dijon mustard, herb white wine vinegar].

In the Style of Amatrice

This is an adaptation of a recipe for bucatini alla matriciana (or all’amatriciana), that is as it is prepared in Amatrice, a small village in the province of Rieti. Originally […]


Pork belly, Asian pear, celery root, smoky rogue “blue” cheese 2004 Jean Gervais Bordeaux Braised lamb shank, picholine olive tapenade, spice-roasted cauliflower, lamb jus Broccoli rabe sauteed with garlic and […]

Back to Basics

Chef Thomas Keller, of The French Laundry [Yountville, California], “ad hoc” [Yountville, California] and Per Se [New York City] is the inspiration behind part of tonight’s dinner. Chef Keller is […]